The Medina of Tunis
When people think of top destinations to visit in North Africa, Egypt and Morocco typically get first bids. Our expectations of Tunisia were minimal before arriving, since we weren’t familiar with the tourism space and what the pace of the country would be like. In a matter of hours, this underrated destination rose to the occasion. The variety of landscapes, the depth of their culture, their history, and the overwhelming sense of tranquility won us over immediately.
The capital city is Tunis; not to be confused with the Arabic word ‘Tunis’ which actually means Tunisia. This is why many people refer to the historic town as Medina of Tunis, or city of Tunis. The history of the town is robust, dating back to the 7th century. Although the country is rather conservative, the people are incredibly welcoming to foreigners and cultural exchange.
Before you head to Tunisia, make sure to download the ride-sharing application, Bolt.
Where to Stay
Our stay in the heart of Medina at Dar Ben Gacem (Kahia) was a dream. The location is tucked into the historic part of the city. Although getting there by car can be tricky, once you get there it’ll be worthwhile. If you’re looking for a budget friendly option, Dar Ya is great and also quite central. For a luxury experience, we highly recommend Dar El Jeld Hotel, a high-end hotel and spa.
What to do in the Medina of Tunis
To enter the medina, you have to start at Bab al-Bahr, the official separation between the modern city and the old town. It’s a freestanding archway with a small fountain in front.
Across the way is the Cathedral of St. Vincent de Paul, the largest in-tact structure from the colonial era. The cathedral lies on the busiest modern-commercial street in the area, Avenue Habib Bourguiba.
In our humble opinion, the older part of the medina is a nicer shopping experience where visitors can interact with locals and buy handicrafts and traditional trinkets. As you enter through Bab al-Bahr, you’ll notice that the area is speckled with architecture, bazaars and winding narrow streets.
In the heart of town is Zitouna Mosque. Although it’s only open for Muslims to visit, you can wander around the courtyard and spot the minaret from nearby terraces. The most famed rooftop is Café Panorama.
A bit further out is the Bardo National Museum, Africa’s second-biggest museum hosting thousands of artifacts and Tunisian heritage exhibitions.
If you prefer to join a day tour to hit the major attractions in Medina of Tunis and sites in Carthage, we highly recommend this guided 8 hour trip.
What to eat in the Medina of Tunis
The best food find was El Ali restaurant, which is tucked away in the medina. We also really enjoyed the rooftop restaurant in Dar El Jeld. But frankly speaking, the food scene in Carthage and La Marsa is much more diverse, despite being a 20-minute drive away. Keep reading for those recommendations!
Sidi Bou Said
The absolute highlight of the Tunis tour. This quaint town overlooking the Gulf of Tunis is reminiscent of the streets of Greek islands with an Arab flare. There is so much life here, from the souqs, to the historic dars, locals and foreigners flocking to the beach and more.
Where to Stay in Sidi Bou Said
If we could stay here hundred times, we would. We cannot rave about the location nor service at La Demeure enough. This is a higher-budget stay, but absolutely phenomenal. Another option was Maison Dedine, but there were no rooms available during our visit. A more budget-friendly place is the wonderful Dar Said, it’s where we stayed at the tail end of our trip and really enjoyed the location.
What to do in Sidi Bou Said
Rue Hédi Zarrouk
The central street taking visitors from the highest points of the town to the seashore. Here, vendors line up the street selling handicrafts, art, and ‘bambalouni’, or Tunisian doughnuts.
Museum Dar El-Annabi
An authentic and beautifully preserved house in the middle of the hustle and bustle of Sidi Bou Said. Originally built in the 18th century, today the home gives visitors a glimpse of traditional Tunisia life.
Palais Ennejma Ezzahra
A personal estate built in 1912 by Baron Rodolophe d’Erlanger. After Tunisia’s independence from France in 1956, the palace was the first museum to open in the country. It displays magnificent craftsmanship of locals and embodies great detail of Arab-Islamic architecture. Aside from the structural beauty, the palace also sits atop one of the highest hills overlooking the gulf, making for a beautiful panoramic view of the city below.
Where to Eat in Sidi Bou Said
There are so many shops in the town to treat your palate. We enjoyed having breakfast at Bleue, grabbing coffee at Ben Rahim and picking up sweet treats at Patisserie Madame Hachicha. All of which are in the heart of the town and around the Alghfran Mosque. Many tourists enjoy the viewpoint at Café de Delices, but we found this to be a bit too commercial.
For dinner, keep scrolling and check out our top recommendations in Carthage, just minutes away.
Carthage
We highly recommend planning your accommodation in Sidi Bou Said, and venturing to Carthage for the day. The seaside suburb is only a 10-minute away from Sidi Bou Said, and a 25-minute drive from the Medina. Let’s talk a little geography so you don’t lose track of the sites. The main archeological area in Carthage is Byrsa Hill, the center of the Punic Carthage and where the ancient walled citadel was located overlooking the Phoenician harbor. In and around Carthage, is over 14 kilometers of ruins, ancient dwellings, baths, and more. You can actually buy one all-inclusive ticket to get access to 8 different sites! We didn’t get a chance to visit all, but here are some highlights.
Acropolium of Carthage
Your first stop should be the Cathedral, which is a former Roman Catholic church built in 1920. Architecturally it is reminiscent of the Notre Dame, which in retrospect is no surprise as it was built by a French architect. Although it has not been used as a place of worship since the early 1990s, it is used as a space for public events.
Baths of Antoninus
As with many baths’ ruins, you have to use a little imagination when visiting the site since much of what’s left is rubble and remnants of the original structure. The 2nd Century Roman complex is the largest in Africa, and one of the top three largest Roman baths in history. It’s quite impressive, and the scenic backdrop of the sea makes it worth the visit.
Where to eat in Carthage
Here it is! Truly some of the best dining to do in Tunis is in Carthage. And it’s not just great Tunisian dinning you’re coming for, it’s the magnificent views of the Gulf of Tunis that this seaside town has to offer. First off, enjoy a high-end meal at Le Rest’Ô at Villa Didon – one of the luxury hotels in the area. Next up, is Punic’Art a beautiful outdoor space and tea salon. Tchevap is another winner in Carthage with an assortment of local dishes and plenty of seafood.
That should give you plenty to do and explore in and around the Medina of Tunis! For those who are visiting Tunis in high-season, considering accommodations in La Marsa. It’s another seaside town near Carthage and Sidi Bou Said – less touristy, but is still quite accessible, close to the main attractions, has plenty of culinary options and great shopping. We had friends stay at Dar Marsa Cubes and they really enjoyed the location and hospitality of the owners. In Marsa, you can dine at several reputable places like A Mi Chemins, The Cliff and Le Bon Vieux Temps.
Excursions
If you have more time to spend in Tunisia, make your way to the gorgeous island of Djerba. You can fly directly from Tunis, or hop from one coastal town to another until you reach the southern end. We had a wonderful experience with the MyDayTrip team who helped us with private transfers from Tunis to Sousse, Hammamet and other major cities. Check them out!
