Ready to explore the Paris of the Middle East? Let’s go. Despite going through quite the economic crisis, Lebanon is still a thriving country and incredibly welcoming to those visiting.
Breakdown of Neighborhoods & What to do in Beirut
Staying at a central location is key to getting around Beirut, but it all really depends on what kind of vibe you’re looking for. Regardless of where you decide to stay, here’s a breakdown of what to do in Beirut.
Raouche
The Raouche area is a quiet and secluded region on the edge of Beirut. It has spectacular views of the sea and of course the famous Pigeon Rocks.
There’s a hidden trail going downwards where you can get better views of the water and the cliffs. You can always opt for a quick ride on a speedboat through the caves, if you’re feeling adventurous. There aren’t many other landmarks near the Raouche Rocks, so it’s nice to get this out of the way early in the morning and head over to downtown. If secluded and quiet is your thing, we recommend staying at the Lancaster Suites Hotel or La Vida Suites – major bonus because of free airport pickup and drop off.
Enjoy the panoramic view of the Rocks at one of the many cliffside restaurants. Our favorite was Al Falamanki, a quite popular Lebanese restaurant with a handful of locations, but this is by far the best. Raouche connects the end of Beirut to downtown via the Corniche or boardwalk along the sea.
Al Manara
Furtherdown the boardwalk, in the Al Manara area, you can find some of the best seafood restaurants in town. Our favorites are Le Pecheur and the La Plage complex that is a series of restaurants including the waterfront Samak and the rooftop lounge Zuruni. If you’d rather stay along the boardwalk, book a stay at the luxury boutique hotel Beverly Hotel Beirut or Bayview Hotel.
Hamra
Back in the day, everyone wanted to stay in Hamra. Overtime, this area has become a hub of cafes and shops, but not the best area to stay for a long period of time. With that being said, some of our favorite little food shops are here. Grab a bite at T-Marboota or checkout authentic asian dishes at Jaï – and thank us later.
If you’d still like to stay in Hamra, we heard wonderful things about The J Hotel & Spa, Caramel Boutique Hotel, and Casa D’Or Hotel.
Badaro
Badaro is another bustling hub, where most expats and NGOs working in Lebanon are based. It’s quiet in the morning, but becomes quite lively in the evenings. Enjoy authentic Armenian food at Onno (take my advice and order Sojouk manti or the vegetarian manti). You can also check out the area during lunch, and grab a bite at Super Vega, coffee at Concierge, and a water pipe or shisha at Villa Badaro.
Things to do in Downtown Beirut
More or less the downtown of Beirut. It’s where the buzz is; restaurants, galleries, high-end shops, nightlife, and amazing street art. Start off by visiting the Beirut Central District (BCD). At first glance you’ll think that you just walked through the oldest part of Beirut. But looks can be deceiving. BCD is a remodeled pedestrianized compound centered around the clock tower in Place de L’Etoile. What is it exactly?
BCD and the area surrounding “Place de L’Etoile” or Nejme Square is home to the Lebanese parliament and is the offspring of massive government reconstruction project named Solidere that began post-civil war destruction in downtown. Nearby, there’s the Saint George Greek Orthodox Cathedral, the city’s oldest extant church! You’ll quickly learn that there’s a generational divide in sentiment towards the Solidere project; the older generation view it as a masking of the deeply troubling history of the Lebanese war and its impact while the newer generations are accustomed to the renovations as a central part of the Beirut they grew up in.
Nearby are the remains of the ancient Roman Baths. The archaeological site was discovered in 1968 and has since been renovated, preserved and often times used as a performance space. The ruins are extremely intricate and a wonderful reflection of ancient Roman infrastructure. You’ll be able to see the several chambers or bath complexes and the elaborate underground heating system that sustained this bathing routine.
Again, to fully enjoy a stroll through downtown Beirut and to grasp the architecture, the atmosphere and landmarks you have to understand Lebanon’s history. A neat way to get your fair share of history and meet new people is booking a tour with Free Walking Tours Beirut. And yes it’s totally free, although a tip for the guide is appreciated and well earned. The tour itself is around two and a half hours and takes you through most of the reconstructed zone, ancient Roman finds, a plethora of history and unique neighborhoods.
There are several important landmarks throughout downtown Beirut that are worth visiting, some because of their historic importance, others are in remembrance of the war and unification of the country.
Let’s start in downtown, where you can easily spot Al Amin Mosque also known as the Blue Mosque, which has become a dominant feature of Beirut’s cityscape.
Just a few steps from the mosque is Martyr’s Square originally built to commemorate those that were executed there under Ottoman rule, but was later re-designed to include traces of the civil war.
Just East of the mosque is the hidden Saifi Village, an upscale neighborhood that was completely destroyed in the war and rebuilt to resemble French colonial buildings.
From there, stroll down the Gemeyzeh neighborhood. Start at the top of Gouraud Street (which later turns into Armenia Street)- a bustling bohemian like narrow road with art galleries, street art, a ton of beautiful stairs and architecture. Gemeyzeh is quite literally the gem of Beirut. I was in total awe of the eclectic vibe; nonchalantly pass by historic buildings that have trendy cafes and pubs downstairs. The contrast is truly unique.
If you’re young and are seeking nightlife, pubs, a variety of restaurants and a more artistic neighborhood, then the joint areas of Gemeyzeh and Mar Mikhael are the perfect places to stay while in Beirut. We recommend staying at Lost Hotel or for a more local vibe and the opportunity to meet travelers the Grand Meshmosh Hotel.
There are more restaurants in these neighborhoods than one can count, and so your options are unlimited. Here are the best restaurants in Gemeyzeh, and specifically on and around Armenia Street: Em Ali for the freshest Saj, El Denye Hek (which translates to “such is life”), The Sage Parlour for fresh ingredients and contemporary spins on class foods. Enjoy outdoor cafes such as Beyt Café or checkout specialty coffees at Urbanista and Kalei Coffee. Do not miss a breakfast at The Barn!
Wrap up Beirut and watch the sunset at the luxurious Zaitunay Bay. The very famous Em Sherif opened up a waterfront restaurant here and we highly recommend it. Another great stop is Ahwet Zeitouna.
Now, let’s talk about some day trips.
Jounieh & Harissa
Before getting to Harissa, stop at Geitto Grotto,
What do in Jounieh? The most visited and famous attraction in Jounieh is the Harissa Church. This was a tricky find, as many of us know there is an ever-famous Téléphérique ride (or cable ride) that takes visitors on a wondrous trip up the mountain of Jounieh. If your destination is Harissa, you’ll most probably ask your driver or uber to head to the church, but the best part is getting to the Téléphérique at the bottom of Jounieh (right at the cliff) and riding up. It’s quite terrifying but worthwhile. Takeaway? Just make sure to ask to be dropped off at the station!
While in Jounieh, you can indulge a bit by eating at one of the many waterfront restaurants. A stunning find was La Creperie, but so was Manuella right on the water and Al Sultan Brahim. You can also head to Olen Bar for the most stunning sunset you can catch in the city.
Byblos
A day trip to Byblos is a given. It’s an ancient city, with a ton of history, a small harbor, lots of shops for trinkets and a few museums. Here’s a detailed guide to getting around Byblos!
The Wineries
The diverse terrain in Lebanon make it a superb destination for vineyards. Our favorites are Chateau Ksara and Ixcir. Ksara is located just an hour away from downtown Beirut, and is an authentic historic winery built in roman caves. Ixcir is a bit further out, closer to Batroun, but is perfectly perched atop a hill overlooking Lebanon’s lush greenery. Both are unmissable in our humble opinion.
Off the Beaten Path
We’ve outlined four of the best day trips in Lebanon here and in our humble opinion they are true hidden gems in this diverse country. Read more on how to plan beautiful hikes and visit natural waterfalls in this post.