The Hormozgan Province, in the south of Iran, has over 14 islands all of which overlook the Persian Gulf and the Gulf of Oman and directly face Oman and United Arab Emirates. The most famed islands are Qeshm, Hormuz, Kish and Hengam. The culture in the south is entirely different than any other part of the country, and reminded us of the traditional Nubian Village found in Aswan, Egypt.
We suggest a long weekend or at least 6 days island hopping through the southern region in Iran. Start your tour by flying into Bandar Abass, or the Port of Abbas, and take a passenger ferry to Hormoz Island. Afterwards, take another ferry from Hormoz to Qeshm Island, and then fly back to your original destination. For more tips and tricks on traveling through Iran, check out our detailed city guides here.
Hormoz Island
We’re going to start off this post with our favorite island of them all, Hormoz. Home to perhaps the most colorful landscapes and shores we’ve ever seen. According to geologists, millions of years ago thick layers of salt were formed around the gulf area and these layers eventually collided with volcanic sediment which caused the formation of chromatic layers of soil. It was no surprise that Hormuz is known as Rainbow Island; everywhere you go you see a variety of hues ranging from deep reds, bright oranges, opaque whites, glistening blacks, to vibrant purples.
Where to Stay
There are several guesthouses and hostels on the island. The circumference of Hormoz is about 24 kilometers, making the location of any accommodation convenient. The most comfortable stays are at Khaneh Kutuk and Hormoz House. But keep scrolling for a delightful surprise and a unique stay!
What to see
Hormoz is a beautiful depiction of a unique place untouched by tourism; despite having a rich history and plenty of natural sites. There are plenty of valleys, beaches and caves to explore on the small island all of which are easily accessible by bikes or rickshaws. Reach out to us to get connected to a local guide.
Red Beach
The most spectacular beach you could ever visit; although the beach itself is normal, it’s surrounded by deep red hills and dunes. If you’re lucky to be visiting during the rainy season, you will witness the reddish tones wash onto the shore and color the edge of the water. At the top of the hill, locals set up small kiosks and sell souvenirs and trinkets from the island.
The Valley of the Statues
After hiking through a seemingly ordinary valley, you’ll reach corridors and narrow dips within the hills that will get you to a view overlooking the Mofannagh Beach. On your trek, you will see interestingly shaped peaks and formations – many of which resemble animals similar to those in Cappadocia, Turkey.
Rainbow Valley
Although much of the island is colorful, in this particular valley the layers of soil are much more apparent.
The Portuguese Castle
One of the last surviving monuments from the Portuguese colonization of the Persian Gulf in the 1500s. The fortress has not been well kept and its decay is quite visible, however it’s a nice and simple exploration to get a taste of the history of the island.
Salt Mountain
Also known as the ‘Salt Goddess,’ this mountain lives within the Silence Valley. A heavenly site of petrified salts and breathtaking shades of crystal structures. We frankly cannot say more about this wander and will let the photos speak for themselves.
Rainbow Cave
Forty meters underground lies a real-life painting with distinct striations of beautiful colors that developed because of the flow of water to the sea under the salt mountain.
Majara Hotel
Both a place to visit and a wonderful choice for accommodation in the heart of the island. The Majara hotel is an award-winning architectural genius. A colorfully domed retreat with passages overlooking the peculiar valleys of Hormoz. They aren’t fully set up on booking websites just yet, so reach out to them via instagram to plan your stay.
Museums
There are two museums on the island the Nadalian Museum and the less known Hormoz Museum precisely located here. Despite being more established, the Nadalian Museum was established by Dr. Ahmad Nadalian, a businessman not entirely liked by locals; thus, we opted to visit the Hormoz Museum which is supported by locals to promote the history of the island. At the museum, you can learn about the history of the island, their traditions and customs, and view many artifacts and displays of their daily life.
Black/Sparkle beach
Last, but certainly not least, is a late-night stop at the black beach. Unlike anything we’ve ever seen, the black sand literally sparkles. It’s a magical feeling and a beautiful end to any evening in Hormoz. Be sure to bring a flashlight or a fully charged phone, as the glittery sand will need a source of light to reflect off of.
Where to Eat
The island doesn’t have many established restaurants, but there are many great food kiosks and cafes to fully indulge in Southern Iranian delicacies. First of all, you have to know which Bandari, or southern food in Iran to go for. If you’re a seafood fan, you’ve come to the right place.
Ghalieh Mahi, or a fish stew made with fresh herbs and a side of rice, is an island staple.
The Ruby Red Soil. You read that correctly. Yes, locals use Hormoz’s enchanting red soil as a spice to make a sauce called ‘soorakh’. Which is typically used as a spread in sandwiches or as a filling in freshly made bread. It’s quite the acquired taste, but every chance we got we tasted it because – c’est la vie and it’s not every day that you have red dirt as sauce.
Tomshi, or local flatbread that’s crepe-like, except for much thinner and crispier. Tomshi is typically made with cheese, butter or lard, the land’s soil and fish sauce.
You can find all of these southern delights at Seleydon Farm and Organic Café. The Barcelona kiosk is a little shop adjacent to the Portuguese Castle that serves freshly made falafel sandwiches and authentic samosas. Finally, more modern places like Hormuz House, Gelak Café and Shouraan Café.
Qeshm Island
Unlike the petite Hormoz, Qeshm is a massive piece of land that could take weeks to explore. We suggest staying in one of the low-key villages versus the commercial areas surrounding the port and the airport. Here’s a glimpse of what you can do and see in two days.
Where to Stay
Boutique homestays and eco-lodges are overwhelmingly popular in Qeshm. Since the island’s tourism mostly serves locals, beware that the majority of bookings and inquiries happen via Instagram, in fact this is quite standard across all of Iran. That’s why we’re going to link their profile pages instead of direct links for booking.
Our favorite stays are Haftrangoo, The Catooks, and Dorshe Complex.
Haftrangoo set us up with several activities including a boat tour in Hara Forest and a night of stargazing in the desert. We highly recommend joining them on their excursions as they are well planned and full of fun.
What to do
Stars Valley Geosite
A result of 2 million years of soil, stone and sand erosion, the valley is a unique geological site and represents the rarest erosion phenomena in Iran. Just a few kilometers from the Qeshm ferry, the 3-million-acre site resembles the Grand Canyon in the United States and is a gem to explore.
Hara Mangrove Forest
The most important bio-site on the island comprised of the largest colony of mangroves in the Persian Gulf. You can set up boat tours to explore the forest while enjoying a variety of water sports including paddle boarding. At sunset, you’ll get a glimpse of the magnificent bioluminescent phytoplankton that light up the reserve.
Chahkooh Gorge
Who knew that erosions were so beautiful? A massive space of majestic gorges and canyons, Chahkooh is yet another natural site to hike through while in Qeshm. Check out the several hand-dug wells and canals that were used to store water during dry seasons.
Namakdan Salt Cave
With a length of 6,400 meters, the Namakdan caves are the longest salt caves in the world. The natural attraction is interestingly not very popular among locals and tourists, but we were happy to get the opportunity to visit. Be prepared to duck quite a bit as you navigate through the calming caves as the narrow passages and shallowness will not allow you to stand up straight throughout the journey.
Traditional Wood Building
Step back in time to the town of Guran and learn about the intricate construction of Lenj, or traditional wooden boats. A 400-year-old art of boat building that continues to be preserved by Guranian locals in Qeshm. These genius craftsmen follow no roadmap or blueprint to build the massive wooden ships, some of which weigh up to 500 tons. Oddly, Aston Martin covered the shipyard in a heritage story and documented the daily life of the ship-builders and the challenges they face in keeping the tradition alive.
Laft Village
Another wonderful fishing village that represents the authentic Persian architecture of Iran’s ancient homes. Laft is known for its skyline of perched windcatchers, or badgirs, overlooking the sea. The village is also known for its Talla Wells, which were created by cutting through layers of stone. Many people choose to spend a night in Laft, if you have the time – reach out to Laft Seventeen for a unique stay in the heart of the village.
Where to eat
This largely depends on what part of the island you’re staying, since it could take up to one hour by car to go from east to west. Near the ferry port and on the eastern end of the island, there are several excellent restaurants with a selection of local seafood stews and fried fish. Try either CROLL or Badil Restaurant.
Closer to the center of the island is the town of Soheili, you can have a traditional meal at Nakhoda Ali Saleh Restaurant. Otherwise, any of the homestays or lodges you will stay at will offer breakfast and dinner.
