Guide to Egypt’s Siwa: Oases, sand dunes, springs, salt lakes and history. 

The Siwa Oasis has been increasing in popularity in recent years. This goes for both Egyptians and foreigners. Many flock to visit the plethora of cool and hot freshwater springs and streams. The fascinating history of the region and discovery of salt lakes only added to the influx of tourism in Siwa. That being said, this is one of those trips that everyone said we were crazy to tackle. But hey, that only made us want to visit even more. The trek to Siwa is a tough one, a long wobbly road from Cairo through Egypt’s Western Desert. But we decided to take the road less traveled, what better way to experience hidden gems in Egypt, right?

How to get to Siwa

Merp. This is the toughest part. There are only two ways to get to Siwa, either by car or by plane. Unfortunately, air travel is only permitted if you have access to a charter flight or book one on your own. The logistics of flying into Siwa are complex as the only open airport is currently a military one and requires a permit.

And so, merp. You have to drive to Siwa, a solid 10 hours from Cairo. Several buses depart from Cairo at 10 pm and arrive at Siwa the next morning. Three stations have regular departures, the main ones are: Almaza station, and Al-Torgoman (known as Ramses Station) in downtown Cairo.

Thankfully several tour agencies in Egypt can help arrange your transport and itinerary in Siwa. You’ll have to contact them directly for more details. Check out Gazef, Puzzle Egypt, and Clifftop Adventures.

If you make it to Siwa on your own, let us know and we can connect you with wonderful local guides!

Siwa’s History

Completely isolated from Egypt’s large and bustling cities, Siwa has preserved the uniqueness of the Amazigh culture. Berbers or Amazighs are an indigenous ethnic group spread across North Africa. Siwa is considered to have a small population of this ethnic group estimated at 25,000 inhabitants. Most of whom work in either agriculture or tourism.

The ancient Oasis of Siwa was a central point of trade between those coming from the Nile Valley in the east and towards Libya in the west. Keep reading to understand why this is important in Siwan history!

Where to Stay in Siwa

Siwa has plenty of great eco-lodges that fit any budget. Hands down our favorite stay was Albabenshal Lodge in the heart of the Shali Fortress. Friends and locals also rave about Siwa Shali Resort and Dream Lodge. If you don’t mind being further away from the downtown area, then splurge a little at stay at either Taghahgen Island,Taziry Ecolodge or Talist.

3 Day Itinerary to Siwa

Let’s talk about what to do and see in Siwa. But beforehand, remember that you’re visiting the desert. Which means that it’s incredibly hot in the morning and shivering cold in the evenings. This is one of those places where you pack a heavy jacket and a bathing suit and wear each on the same day.

Because of how far Siwa is from Alexandria and Cairo, it’s best to stay for 3 full days. Here’s a sample itinerary of what to do each day.

DAY 1

Start your Siwa journey at Jabal Al Mawta or Mountain of the Dead. Yes, it’s as somber as it sounds, but the story is incredible. Jabal Al Mawta is an entire mountain of tombs dating back to the 26th dynasty covering both the Greek and the Roman periods. Most of the tombs have been rummaged and robbed, but the most well-known one that remains is one belonging to Si-Amun. Ask any of the local guides to tour his beautifully painted burial chambers!

Don’t forget to climb to the very tip of the mountain where you can get a perfect panorama of the Oasis.

Next, head over to the Amun Temple, which has several names including Qaryet Aghormy, Temple of the Oracle and the Iskander Temple. The temple was initially built to honor the sun god Amun-Ra, but this is only the beginning of the story.

It is said that Alexander the Great made the trek to Siwa specifically to visit the Amun Temple. His quest in consulting the temple’s oracle was to affirm divinity, specifically that he was the son of Amun. This of course, led to a rising number of visitors to the oracle and the greater city of Siwa.

Now that you’ve toured the temple and wrapped up a solid morning of history, head over to the serene Cleopatra’s Pool. Having nothing to do with Cleopatra, this natural spring pool offers a nice mid-day dip. The pool is surrounded by small shops and beautifully decorated cafés.

Try one of Siwa’s many unique juices and smoothies at any of the cafes surrounding the spring. The most interesting being Mango and Mint Juice, Guava, Lemon and Mint Juice, and Iced Nescafe (or coffee) with fresh date juice.

Depending on what time of the year you visit Siwa, your next stop might be a sunset-watching experience. Grab a tuk-tuk or have your guide to take you to Fetnas Island. This is a secluded island on the mouth of the Siwa Lake where we got our absolute favorite view of the sun setting. Be ready to have more drinks here as they only prepare meals that were pre-ordered.

It’s only day one, but after a long ride over to Siwa, you may need real rest. If you’re still up and going, visit the Torar Resort for a mellow evening in a traditional Bedouin tent.

DAY 2

 Start day 2 bright and early and take a dip in Siwa’s famed Salt Lakes. At first, you might be taken aback by how “deserted” the lakes are, but through the labyrinth of extracted salt hills you’ll reach the crystal-clear waters. The salt lakes have similar hyper-salinity properties to those of Jordan’s Dead Sea. This also means that the lakes hold great healing properties, much stronger than regular seawater. In all cases, they make for a wonderful swim!

Siwans are known for using salt in building and in many of their local artifacts and products. Through your visit you’ll learn more about how salt is used in everyday life. And you can also grab a few salt-made souvenirs to take home, a popular one being salt lamps.

Dry up and make your way to Jabal Dakrour. Similar to Jabal Al Mawta, Dakrour Mountain is known for its tombs and dwellings carved inside the hard rocks. It’s also the sight of the yearly Siwan celebration, the Tourism Festival.

It’s now mid-day, and it’s time to rinse off, change your clothes and embark on a safari. The highlights of the Siwan safari are of course off-roading in 4x4s, sand-boarding down the soft desert dunes, visiting hot springs, and enjoying the sunset while sipping on Louiza, or Siwan lemongrass tea.

Wrap up your day at Camp Ali Khaled also known as Mountain Camp. Certainly, the most lively and famed camp in Siwa. Make sure to grab your bathing suit and a change of clothes, as this is one of the few camps that has a hot spring in the middle of the establishment. At the camp you can take a dip in the spring, enjoy local Siwan dances, music and a hefty dinner.

DAY 3

Finally, on day three discover the world of the Old City of Shali or locally known as Shali Ghadi. Remember when we talked about the history of Siwa and it being the hub of trade and business? This is where things got really interesting. There’s history, and then there are the local tales.

We’re more interested in the local myth. Locals say that Siwa was ambushed by invaders and to protect themselves from intruders they built the fortress. The fortress had and continues to have only one entrance through a high set of stairs.

The ancient fortress is entirely made of Khershif, or salt and mud-brick, which only adds to the distinctiveness of the architecture. Much of Shali is now destroyed due to heavy rains that crumbled the town. However, it remains open for visitors and is well worth the hike. Check out the remarkable view from the top of Shali.

As you head back down, take some time to check the market and shops surrounding Shali for handmade souvenirs and artifacts.

Visit the Siwa House Museum, a traditional house that displays aspects of Siwan life such as costumes, artifacts, jewelry.

Schedule a tour to Adrere Amellal, meaning White Mountain. The only hotel, or rather, eco-lodge, in Siwa that has no electricity. Adrere Amellal is a luxury lodge where Katy Perry stayed during a recent visit to Siwa.

Nearby is the secluded Taghahgen Island, yet another mesmerizing location to watch the sunset and wrap up your last day in Siwa. There’s a small entrance fee, but the décor, the simplicity of the lodges, and tranquil view are worth it!

In the evening, stop by Camp Martous for another late-night dip in the hot spring!

Best Places to Eat in Siwa

Siwa is quite a small town and the reputable restaurants are known to all locals. Here’s a list of the best places to eat in Siwa. Wherever you go, be sure to order an Abu Mardam meal. Abu Mardam is a unique style of cooking meats in a barrel or pot underground. Think of Bedouin style barbeque. It’s absolutely delicious and you’ll have quite a variety of meat options ranging from chicken, camel, lamb or beef.

Abdu Restaurant is excellent for traditional Egyptian breakfast meals. Al Babenshal (also our favorite place to stay), had one of the best candle-lit dinners in town.

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